Virtual Adviser Alternative Sanitizing Systems

The different types of Alternative Sanitizing Systems, are often, not very compatible with each other,  but the ones that can work friendly with each other seem to be the most effective way to go. The first rule of thumb we use is, don't replace a chemical, with another chemical that we have to use more of, that is a trade off, not progress. Most of the systems we endorse, work well with ozone, chlorine, bromine, salt, and/or ionizers. Each part of the system does a percentage, the more steps, the higher percentage of sanitizer demand reduced. The equipment system must function together, it does require longer run times, up to 23 hrs. daily (even the hardest working equipment needs 1 hour of rest, just to let the d.e. filter cake relax and reposition.). A pump that can work well with pressure and flow should be connected directly to the Diatomaceous Earth Filter. Absolutely, no poolsweep valve, between the pump and filter, pool cleaners should either be booster pump driven or suction. Period. Filtering ALL of the water, before allowing ALL of the water t be mechanically sanitized, is only good logic; leave two speed pumps on portable hot tubs and off pools, it is a waste of electricity to operate a pool on low speed when you can't get enough flow to operate the venturi of the ozone generator! Logical forethought, should be applied when thinking about what is needed, hopefully when the pool is constructed / installed, or maybe, even later, when corrections to ineffectiveness, can work, seeming, miracles.

We will start listing each step of alternative systems, with a short explanation.

My pool is approximately 40,000 gallons, it is shaped like a giant lightning bolt. It is presently equipped with:

  1. Polaris model 280 Vac-Sweep, booster pump and automatic timer, daily run cycle approximately 1.5 hours. Dispenses ozone at the bottom of the pool, while cleaning the pool.
  2. Nature2 Professional model RG, with 2 inch ports
  3. Swimquip (Sta-rite) model DES-60 D.E. Filter (new model equivalent, StaRite S8D110)
  4. Sta-Rite Duraglas 1.5 hp pump
  5. Ozone Generator, capacity 50,000 gallons, with induction through the drain plug of the main pump ($950.00)
  6. Polaris wall mount fountain ($45.00) Remove a pool return fitting along a wall that is either straight, or curved away from the pool. Replace the fitting with the Polaris connection and attach the fountain. Simple!
  7. Dual skimmers, and main drain plumbed separately, with 2 inch plumbing and individual valves
  8. Regular use of a Phosphate remover (Phos Free, by Pool Perfect Step 1, initially, & maintained by Step 2)

And for the record, my pool is NOT an easy pool to keep sanitized. It has giant Chinese Photinas surrounding the pool (35 feet tall, around 12 meters. Alcoves cut out, for the statues, of course!) and a pack (three to five at any time) of (sometimes seemingly, crazed) Husky-Wolves destroying the pool's serenity on a regular basis. They have been known to hide and bury equipment while we work on the pool! They regard the pool as their personal drinking and swimming hole, and are continuously contaminating the water with some new and creative manner. I would give up chlorine, rather, than my precious babies, so alternative methods have become a major driving force. My pool, 10  years ago, used 5 large tablets with 2.5 lbs. of shock on a weekly basis (not counting algaecide and such). Eight years ago, we installed the Nature2 Professional model and the chlorine demand dropped to 3 tablets and 1.5 pounds of shock weekly. Algae levels and occurrences were easier to control, and less often. We added two wall mounted fountains to break up ammonia nitrates (a nutrient algae needs, formed by waste in the water, or by fertilizer getting into the pool) by aerating the water more, and anytime algae did actually develop, it took far longer to spread. Five years ago, we added an Ozone generator to the pool and have decreased even further, the amount of chlorine demand. Only 1 tablet and 1.0 lbs. of shock every week or two, satisfies the sanitizer demand. Three years ago, we began testing phosphate remover (Algae needs phosphates for nutrient. No phosphates means algae starves!). No algae has been able to establish a colony in the pool, the water quality has surpassed even my wildest expectations. When testing the water with standard test reagents, no visible traces of chlorine is present, the base (alkalinity) and pH are absolutely stable. We have found that maintenance dosages of natural enzymes have extended the filter cycles and helped break up the oils that build up in a pool on the waterline.

I also use the same sort of technology to keep my turtle tanks (mostly, Texas native Red Ear Sliders) clean and clear. They are healthy and happy turtles with ozone pure water for three years. We save a lot of baby turtles (also snakes, frogs, skunks, rabbits, etc.) from pool skimmers, and with home development, the creeks and ponds get houses built where they lived, so I keep them (turtles) until they are a couple of years old, then release them into Lake Lewisville, to live happy turtle lives.