HOW TO CLEAN A D.E. FILTER
1. ALWAYS TURN OFF POWER TO EQUIPMENT BEFORE MOVING BACKWASH VALVE OR OPENING ANY PIECE OF EQUIPMENT. HYDRAULIC PRESSURE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY !!!!
2. Backwash filter to remove excess filter cake.
3. After backwashing, turn off equipment and close all valves on suction side of the pump (to avoid losing prime in the pump).
4. Open air relief valve ( if possible ) and allow as much of the water to drain out of the filter through the backwash line as possible.
5. If a drain line (hole) is installed on the filter for filter cleaning, remove the drain plug and allow the water to drain as much as possible.
6. Remove belly clamp holding the shell together. (Some filters are bolted together instead of clamped)
7. CAREFULLY separate the shells and retainer ring (if used), taking care not to damage or stretch the o-ring.
8. Using a spray nozzle on a garden hose, spray off the filter grids, while still in position, in the filter to help remove excess filter cake before removal of the grids. Allow the filter grids to drain for a few minutes before attempting to lift out filter assembly.( The assembly can be remarkably HEAVY WHEN FILLED WITH WATER!)
9. Most D.E. filters allow complete removal of the grids in one assembly, but occasionally, either the size of the filter (a 72 sq.ft. filter can be quite a handful to pick up and move around when dirty!) or the location of the filter prevents the simple approach and disassembly in the filter tank is necessary to clean the filter. Most have a manifold that all of the grids fit into and conducts the filtered water to a main pipe in the filter. Usually, this manifold, will simply slide fit over the pipe, with an o-ring to seal it. Sometimes a lock nut holds it on. After releasing the manifold from the grids (usually by removal of 2 nuts attaching a couple of long bars to the manifold, and then working (carefully) the grids out of the manifold, remove the manifold from the pipe and filter. Carefully lift each of the filter grids from the filter and place where they are to be cleaned. (NOTE ANY LOCATION OF DIFFERENT SIZES OF GRIDS; ex. small grid next to pipe, all the rest same size) Lift bottom bracket from bottom.
10. Wash remaining d.e. from the filter tanks, manifolds and brackets.
11. Lean filter grids (with open end down) against a wall or fence and spray off with the garden hose (this is a good time to inspect them for tears & holes).
12. Reassembling the main assembly is simply a matter of fitting the grids back into their respective positions on the manifold, fitting the bracket back on the bottom, sliding the long bars through to where they need to connect. (SPECIAL NOTE: SOME FILTERS HAVE SPACE ON THE BOTTOM BRACKET TO ALLOW THE MAIN PIPE TO FIT / ALIGN WITH THE OUTLET ON THE MANIFOLD).
When tightening the connecting rods, don't get overzealous on the torque. The grids are only made of light plastic frames covered with a nylon mesh, not I-beam steel. Over-tightening can cause grid failure even before the installation! Of course, they should be snug enough not to leak d.e. through the fittings.
13. Reinsert the entire assembly into the shell, attaching the manifold to the main pipe.
14. Replace retainer ring (if any) and o-ring (be sure it is clean before replacing). If any concern of leaking is present, replace o-ring with a new o-ring.
15. Realign other half of the tank with the part still mounted to the plumbing (hopefully, you did not have to remove the ENTIRE filter to do a filter clean. If you did, you should consider repositioning your equipment so as not to have THAT problem again!) and attach the belly clamp or bolt the sections together again. (HELPFUL HINT: use a rubber mallet to tap the clamp down as you are tightening to get a good seating and put less pressure on the bolt and bracket of the clamp!)
16. From this point on, treat it like you just finished backwashing the filter. Replace the backwash valve into the proper position, start the pump, open the suction valves, recharge the filter. NOTE IF ANY D.E. SHOOTS BACK INTO THE POOL AS IT CAN BE INDICATIVE OF POSSIBLE HOLES IN THE GRIDS OR LEAKS IN THE CONNECTIONS. ALSO CHECK FOR LEAKS AT THE SEAL BETWEEN THE SHELL SEGMENTS.
17. Make a note of your pressure at this time, as this is the standard pressure reading to base all other pressure readings (and actions from those readings).