What the Perfect Pool would need to have (besides everything else).

    The most confusing question, for a future pool owner, to deal with, is usually, what do you need?!? We compiled a list of 'basics', that, we feel, is important to any pool's healthy operations.

1. Keep the design simple, if possible. Lots of sharp angles (or tables, columns, etc.) in the pool may look pretty on paper, but only algae can truly appreciate hard to clean spots. Smooth, flowing curves, that an automatic pool cleaner can handle, are best. Steps, need tile trim to be visible when the water is shimmering. Stones, brick, concrete, can be too hot, to get out of the pool, onto, where as, coping is cool to touch.  When you are around pools, as much as we are, you notice little things like that. Don't use glass blocks for a wall to hold water. They almost always leak or get algae inside the glass block. Someone, somewhere, can build glass block walls that don't have these problems. We just don't know where they are. If you want to use them, just don't put them where water is being held by them.
2. Keep the equipment in close proximity (and easy access) to the pool. And don't hide it, somewhere, 3 or 4 feet above the water level and 40 feet away, when the pump has to catch prime!
3. Use quality equipment. Starite and Pacfab-Triton are two top quality manufacturers, both can provide pumps, filters, & heaters to match together. A 1.5 hp pump can run a small pool without a waterfall, a 2 hp can run a larger pool & a waterfall. A 2.5 hp can run a large pool with a spa, but requires 2.5 id plumbing. A diatomaceous earth filter (one micron, 48 to 72 sq.ft.) to match the pool size is needed. If a heater is desired, get the largest available, it will do the job in a more realistic time frame. Add a light for the equipment pad, it can really help out, when you need it.
4. Lighting for a pool, needs to be bright enough to see what is in there. Most fiber optic systems are not configured with enough light to play volleyball at night (people don't want to pay enough to get the extra light source needed for that much fiber optic!), and should have an auxiliary in-pool light, just so you could see what you are doing at night.
5. Some thought should be given to the size and placement of the suction and return lines. All lines must be at least 2" id (2.5" is better), for flow rates to be correct for the equipment. Suction lines should have separate, dedicated plumbing with a Teflon diverter type valve (Jandy Nvr-Lube or Compool) for each line. Placement should usually be at opposite ends, with the prevailing wind, as a major consideration. Do not plumb the main drain through the skimmer, even if it is possible, it destroys a lot of future options. Two (2) skimmers (not on the same line) are a must on even the smallest of pools, because the wind has two (2) directions that it blows, almost anywhere. Dual main drains on the same suction line, are needed, to divide the suction in half, for safety, and it does give a better chance of getting that dirt, since everything sinks, eventually, anyway! (And ALL inground pools need bottom mounted main drains.) That makes a minimum of 3 suction lines for a pool, maybe 1 more for a spa, if a spa is part of the system. If the water returning to the pool can be placed in the correct locations, the circulation of the pool is enhanced incredibly. The steps, are swept out, by the jet pointed at them, and the remainder of the jets can work with each other to create a current that, has no eddies, and can almost clean the pool alone. They should be pointed downward (and left or right. All the same way) around 45 degrees with a Polaris, or upward (same manner as downward) about 45 degrees with a Kreepy or Great White.  And have plenty of fountains and waterfalls, if possible.
6. Finish for the pool, is a judgment call. Vinyl has peak life of 8 years. Fiberglass, in theory can be refinished, we just don't know anyone that does a good job, and it takes an expert to simply drain one without caving in the walls and floating! Gunite (plaster) pools, when built well, can last for many, many years, easily. Plaster needs refinishing at between 8 & 10 years. Diamondbrite, a new plaster alternative, might last forever, we have no idea, as of yet. If Gunite, the steel needs to be .5" rebar, at least, with the steel to be placed and tied, at 8" centers, at the maximum.
7. I have a Polaris 280 (not 180 or 380), with a booster pump (pressure side cleaner), and separate timer, in my pool. In my opinion, it is one of the best cleaners, ever made, by anyone. Since some builders prefer to use suction cleaners, if you get one, it must have dedicated suction line and valve for best performance, same as the Polaris needing a dedicated pressure line. Kreepy Krauly and StaRite's Great White are the only suction side cleaners, that we endorse.
8. An Ozone generator (without an air pump, but with a venturi injection at the equipment pad) should be required equipment on all pools. It significantly reduces chemical demand for sanitizer, by mechanically sanitizing the water while filtering. It does require the equipment operate for a longer cycle, to have a noticeable reduction of chemicals. Run it with the fountains going for the ascetic pleasure. along with the very real aeration of the water, breaking up ammonia nitrates! I listen to my pool operate, for 23 hours a day (even a d.e. filter needs a hour of rest every day). A passive ionizer (Nature2 or Frog) rounds out the basic list. Change out the element annually (swim season is not year round for most of us) and it also helps with the mechanical sanitation. In-line chlorinators tend to destroy equipment (leaky check valves, only dispensing to the pool when equipment is running, but dispensing to the equipment pad when it isn't, ) and use more chemicals. In-line chlorine generators are not the same thing, they actually make chlorine from salt, instead of just a ‘convenient place to put tablets', can maintain a continuous normal level of sanitizer to keep algae-free, can be used in conjunction with ozone generators and / or passive ionizers, for a reduction in levels of sanitizers.