Swamp Water - Zero Visibility.
Swamp Water - Zero Visibility.
Step 1. Balance water. See "Ideal Water Balance" . Pay close attention to Alkalinity, Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) and Calcium levels. If a calcium based chlorine is being used, discontinue until AFTER the water is cleared. If water is stressed, the solution to the problem may be draining and refilling with fresh water! Hint: If the Chlorine level is high already, or it stays high for days, there is a good chance that you have excessive stabilizer levels, and need to change some water out BEFORE you waste any money on chemicals that probably won't be effective anyway! If you need to drain, skip to Step 3b.
Step 2. Net or vacuum bottom of pool "Blind". Any organic debris left in pool can diminish the sanitizer's effect. Brush floor and walls also, as algae will cling to surface areas. Add Poly-Quat type Algaecide to begin killing the algae. Adding a metallic type of algaecide such as copper or silver base CAN be very effective, but can and will cause slight staining of the surface areas. If staining is not a problem (or possibly unavoidable because the Algae is already staining), a combination of silver and copper algaecide can be VERY effective in killing the infestation, but the pool must be brushed regularly to make the Algae growth disappear (and the Algae stains may not go away for a Long time).
Step 3a) Add Natural Enzymes for aid in breaking things down, add polymer clarifier for linking particles to make large enough for filtration. Operate equipment (with main filter getting the water) 24 hours continuously (maybe for several days, not just one day) until water is clear. Maintain Sanitizer Levels above 3.0 p.p.m. and observe filter pressures for needed backwashes / cleanings.
OR
Step 3b. Add Natural Enzyme for aid in breaking down oils and organic components, add flocculant to surface of the pool, circulate 2 hrs. Shut down equipment. allow to settle for 24 to 72 hours.
IMPORTANT KEY! When vacuuming debris up, it should be pumped out of the pool and nothing (like pool returns) should be allowed to disturb the filament settled on the bottom, or it will become suspended again.
IMPORTANT WARNING! DO NOT JUST BACKWASH IT THRU YOUR FILTER! It will damage your filter if it is a sand filter. However, if it is a D.E. filter and not a closed system, simply remove the grids, and reassemble the shell before backwashing, . If you have a Multiport Backwash valve, it has a setting for pumping to waste that should be used. Otherwise, rent a pump from an equipment rental. If Algae growth is heavy on walls and floor, a power-wash with a high pressure unit (also available at your neighborhood rental) may be well worth the effort. Sometimes completely dumping the mess and starting over is the least
expensive and most effective means to deal with it.
DO NOT DRAIN POOL IF GROUND WATER IS PRESENT! POOLS WILL FLOAT OUT OF THE GROUND, RIPPING THE PLUMBING WITH IT!
Step 4. Clean Cartridge Element or Backwash Filter. If filter pressure remains high, replace Element (annual) , change sand (every 1 - 3 years), or clean D.E. internals (annual), whichever is applicable.
Step 5. If applicable:
If non-boosted pool sweep is present and plumbed on the pressure area between the pump & filter, turn valve OFF and DO NOT OPERATE POOLSWEEP UNTIL WATER IS CLEAR. Water that goes to these type of cleaners after the pump and before the filter, does not go through the main filtration and sanitizing system!Step 6. After all traces of the Algae is gone, add a sequestering agent to help remove the stains. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) or Sodium Erythorbate (synthetic ascorbic acid) can sometimes help. Using a phosphate eliminator, to insure against future algae infestations, is recommended.